Wheels & Tires¶
This file covers the wheels, tires, wheel bearings, valve stems, balancing, and related service data for the 2000 Honda GL1500 SE Gold Wing (the final GL1500-generation model year). Wheel and tire specifications were essentially unchanged across the entire GL1500 run (1988–2000) and across trims (Standard / Interstate / Aspencade / SE), so the data here applies to the whole generation unless noted. All figures are given in both metric and imperial; anything not confidently verified against the Honda factory service manual is flagged inline with ⚠️.
The GL1500 rides on a cast-aluminum 18-inch front wheel and a 16-inch rear wheel, both running tubeless tires. The bike is heavy (≈360 kg / 794 lb dry, more like 420–450 kg / 925–990 lb wet-and-loaded two-up), so correct tire choice, inflation, and bearing condition matter a great deal for stability and tire life.
Wheel Sizes¶
| Item | Spec | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Front wheel | 18 in diameter | Cast aluminum, tubeless |
| Front rim width | ⚠️ approx. MT2.50 × 18 — confirm against the factory service manual | Width not consistently published; sized for the 130 mm front tire |
| Rear wheel | 16 in diameter | Cast aluminum, tubeless |
| Rear rim width | ⚠️ approx. MT3.50 × 16 — confirm against the factory service manual | Width not consistently published; sized for the 160 mm rear tire |
| Construction | Cast aluminum alloy, multi-spoke | Both wheels marked "TUBELESS TYRE APPLICABLE" |
- Both rims are stamped "TUBELESS TYRE APPLICABLE" — only mount tubeless tires; do not fit a tube/tubed tire.
- ⚠️ The exact factory rim width designations (e.g. MT2.50 and MT3.50) are commonly cited by riders but are not consistently documented across the sources consulted. Confirm the stamped rim width on your own wheels and/or the factory service manual before ordering tires that depend on rim width.
- See also Suspension for the air-adjustable fork/shock and Final Drive / Shaft Drive for the rear-wheel/driveshaft interface.
Tire Sizes & Ratings¶
| Position | Size | Load/Speed index | OEM type | Construction |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Front | 130/70-18 | 63H (≈ 272 kg / 600 lb @ 210 km/h / 130 mph) | Dunlop K177F (factory) | Bias (OEM); radial options exist |
| Rear | 160/80-16 | 75H per owner's manual (⚠️ many modern replacements such as the Dunlop Elite 4 are rated 80H ≈ 450 kg / 992 lb) | Dunlop K177 (factory) | Bias (OEM); radial options exist |
Reading the size codes:
- 130/70-18: 130 mm section width, 70 % aspect ratio (sidewall height = 70 % of width), 18 in rim. A dash (-) denotes bias-ply; an R (e.g. 130/70R18) denotes radial.
- 160/80-16: 160 mm width, 80 % aspect ratio, 16 in rim. The rear is sometimes printed 160/80B16, where B = belted-bias construction.
- Speed symbol H = rated to 210 km/h (130 mph) — far above the bike's ~159 km/h (99 mph) top speed, so any H-rated tire is adequate.
Notes & cautions:
- ⚠️ Some secondary websites list the rear as 150/80-16. This is incorrect for the GL1500; the factory size is 160/80-16, confirmed by the Honda owner's manual (which prints 160/80 16 75H) and by OEM/replacement tire fitment catalogs. Do not fit a 150-width rear.
- The load index on the OEM rear (75H) is fairly low for such a heavy, often-loaded bike. Modern premium replacements (e.g. Dunlop Elite 4 at 80H) carry a higher load rating and are generally preferred for two-up touring.
- Never fit an automobile tire ("darksiding") unless you fully understand the trade-offs. The owner's manual explicitly warns against mounting car tires on motorcycle rims. Some riders run car tires on the rear; it is an unsupported modification with real handling/safety consequences and is outside Honda's spec.
Recommended Replacement Tires¶
The GL1500 has a limited but well-proven tire selection. Common, widely recommended fitments:
- Bridgestone Exedra (G703 front / G704 rear, or Exedra Max) — frequently described as the Honda-approved/OEM-style replacement for the Gold Wing.
- Dunlop Elite 3 / Elite 4 — long-wearing touring tires; Elite 4 rear uses multi-tread (MT) technology. Sizes: 130/70-18 (63H) front, 160/80B16 (80H) rear.
- Metzeler ME 888 Marathon Ultra — available in both sizes; long-mileage touring.
- Avon Cobra Chrome, Pirelli Night Dragon, Shinko — additional options in the correct sizes.
Always match both tires to the same construction family where practical and follow the tire maker's fitment chart — load/speed ratings and approved sizes can differ slightly between brands.
Tire Pressures (Cold)¶
Always check and set pressures cold (bike not ridden, or ridden less than ~1.6 km / 1 mile). There is a tire-pressure/caution label on the frame (left side) and in the owner's manual.
Factory Recommended Pressures (Honda GL1500 Owner's Manual)¶
| Condition | Front | Rear |
|---|---|---|
| Solo rider (rider up to ~90 kg / 200 lb) | 225 kPa / 2.25 bar (33 psi) | 250 kPa / 2.50 bar (36 psi) |
| Loaded (rider + passenger + luggage, up to vehicle capacity) | 225 kPa / 2.25 bar (33 psi) | 280 kPa / 2.80 bar (41 psi) |
- The front stays at 33 psi regardless of load.
- The rear rises from 36 psi (solo) to 41 psi (loaded/two-up). Increase rear pressure as you add a passenger and luggage.
- These are the OEM numbers, set for the original Dunlop K177 tires.
Real-World / Replacement-Tire Practice (rider consensus)¶
Many GL1500 owners run slightly higher pressures with modern replacement tires to reduce cupping and improve mileage and handling. A very common setup:
- Front: ~36–40 psi (250–275 kPa / 2.5–2.75 bar)
- Rear: ~40–41 psi (275–280 kPa / 2.75–2.80 bar)
⚠️ This is community practice, not a factory spec. The authoritative numbers are the owner's manual values above and, ultimately, the maximum pressure marked on the tire sidewall of the specific tire you fit — never exceed the sidewall maximum. When in doubt, set the manual pressures and adjust within the tire maker's recommended range.
- A digital or quality dial gauge is strongly recommended; the high-bodywork GL1500 makes valve access fiddly, so an angled valve-stem chuck or 90° adapter helps.
- Re-check pressure with seasonal temperature swings (≈ 1 psi / 7 kPa change per ~5.5 °C / 10 °F).
Load Rating & Capacity¶
| Item | Value | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Front tire load index (OEM) | 63 → ≈ 272 kg (600 lb) | At rated pressure/speed |
| Rear tire load index (OEM) | 75 → ≈ 387 kg (853 lb) | ⚠️ Some replacement rears are 80 → ≈ 450 kg (992 lb) |
| Speed symbol (both) | H → 210 km/h (130 mph) | Well above bike top speed |
| Max vehicle load capacity | ⚠️ approx. 200 kg (≈440 lb) of rider + passenger + cargo — confirm against the owner's manual / frame VIN label for this exact unit | Used to define the "loaded" rear pressure of 41 psi |
- ⚠️ The precise GVWR / maximum load figure should be read off the bike's own owner's manual and the VIN/load plate, as it can vary slightly with market and equipment. Do not exceed it.
- See Specifications & Dimensions and Weights & Capacities for full weight data.
Axle Nut & Related Torque¶
Torque the axle nut/bolt fully first, then tighten the pinch (holder) bolts last. Tightening pinch bolts before the axle is fully seated can leave the axle unseated, causing lateral play and brake drag.
Front Axle¶
| Fastener | Torque | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Front axle bolt | 88 N·m (65 ft·lb) ⚠️ see note | Honda manual prints "90 N·m (9.0 kg·m, 65 ft·lb)" — internally inconsistent (90 N·m = 66 ft·lb, 65 ft·lb = 88 N·m) |
| Front axle pinch bolt(s) | 22 N·m (16 ft·lb) each | Two pinch bolts on the right fork leg |
| Front brake caliper mount — top bolt | ⚠️ ≈ 23 N·m (17 ft·lb) — confirm against factory manual | From a GL1500 DIY writeup |
| Front brake caliper mount — bottom bolt | ⚠️ ≈ 12 N·m (9 ft·lb) — confirm against factory manual | From a GL1500 DIY writeup |
- ⚠️ Front axle torque discrepancy: Honda's own factory table lists "90 N·m (9.0 kg·m, 65 ft·lb)" — but 65 ft·lb is actually 88 N·m, and 90 N·m is 66 ft·lb. The two units don't match because of rounding in the original manual. In practice 65–66 ft·lb (88–90 N·m) is correct; use the ft·lb figure (65) if your wrench is in ft·lb. The Clymer manual lists 66 ft·lb. Confirm against your own factory service manual.
Rear Axle¶
| Fastener | Torque | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Rear axle nut | 108 N·m (80 ft·lb) | Clymer lists ~81 ft·lb — essentially the same; 80 ft·lb = 108 N·m |
| Rear axle pinch/holder bolt | 31 N·m (23 ft·lb) | Clymer ~24 ft·lb |
| Rear lower shock mount bolt | 69 N·m (51 ft·lb) | When the rear wheel/suspension is disturbed |
- See Torque Specifications for the consolidated torque table.
- See Brakes (LBS/CBS) for caliper and linked-brake bleeding details when a wheel is removed.
Wheel Bearings¶
The GL1500 uses sealed (UU / 2RS) ball bearings, pressed into the hubs. They are not the adjustable/packable taper type — no manual preload adjustment.
| Wheel | Bearings | Size (ID × OD × W) | Quantity | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Front | 6004UU (sealed both sides) | 20 × 42 × 12 mm | 2 (identical) | Two dust seals (one each side) |
| Rear | 6204UU (sealed) | 20 × 47 × 14 mm | 1 | Left side per Honda app chart |
| Rear (other side) | wider sealed ball bearing | ⚠️ 20 × 47 × 20.6 mm — different/thicker than the 6204; note orientation on removal | 1 | One rear dust seal only |
- ⚠️ The two rear bearings are different widths (≈14 mm vs ≈20.6 mm). Note the position and thickness of each as you remove them and reinstall them on the correct side. Do not assume they are interchangeable.
- The rear dust seal is reported to be the same part as the GL1800 front seal. The rear has one dust seal; the front has two (one per side).
Aftermarket Bearing/Seal Kits¶
| Kit | Covers | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| All Balls 25-1077 (a.k.a. 22-51077) | Front wheel bearings + seals | Double-lip nitrile (Type TC) seals |
| All Balls 25-1020 | Rear wheel bearings + seals | Sealed; no manual packing needed |
- All Balls (and similar) sealed kits are popular, inexpensive, good-quality replacements; because they are sealed you do not re-pack them with grease.
- Honda cross-references the front bearing as 6004UU; the rear as 6204UU plus the wider companion bearing.
Bearing Service Tips¶
- Inspect by spinning the wheel off the ground: bearings must turn smoothly with no lateral play, roughness, or notching. Replace in pairs (per wheel) if either is suspect.
- Bearings can last very long on these bikes — owners report 170,000 mi (≈274,000 km) on original rear bearings — so most failures are from water ingress or a damaged seal, not mileage.
- On reassembly: clean and re-grease the spacer/collar and the dust-seal lips; confirm the inner spacer collar is present in the hub (a missing collar leaves excess axle thread and prevents proper clamp-up).
- Drive bearings in squarely with a proper bearing driver (or a socket on the outer race only) — never hammer on the inner race or the seal.
- After installing new bearings/wheel, some riders run the bike in gear on the centerstand 20–30 min to let everything settle, then re-verify axle torque.
Valve Stems¶
| Item | Spec | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Type | Tubeless rubber snap-in stem (TR413 / TR412 class) | ⚠️ Confirm exact stem (short TR412 vs standard TR413) against the wheel — verify |
| Replacement interval | Replace with every tire change | Cheap insurance; old rubber stems crack and leak |
| Metal/bolt-in stems | Optional upgrade | Some owners fit metal 90° or bolt-in stems for easier gauge access behind bodywork |
- Because the GL1500's full bodywork makes the valve hard to reach, a 90° valve extension/adapter or an angled stem greatly eases checking/inflating — important since correct pressure is critical on this heavy bike.
- ⚠️ The exact OEM valve-stem part number is not confirmed in the sources consulted; any quality tubeless snap-in stem in the correct bore size is acceptable. Confirm bore/length when buying.
Wheel Balancing¶
- Have each tire balanced when mounted. The heavy GL1500 is sensitive to wheel imbalance — symptoms are a vibration/shimmy that appears or worsens at a specific speed band (often felt in the bars/floorboards).
- Static balancing on a stand is adequate and is what most shops/owners use; dynamic (spin) balancing is fine too.
- Some owners use internal balancing media (e.g. ceramic/Dyna beads) instead of stick-on weights, especially on the rear; this is an accepted alternative, not a factory method.
- Use stick-on (adhesive) weights on cast wheels — there is no spoke nipple to clip onto. Clean the rim well so weights adhere.
- Re-balance any time you fit a new tire; do not reuse old weights or assume a remounted old tire is still balanced.
Tire Replacement Tips¶
- Tubeless only — both rims are marked "TUBELESS TYRE APPLICABLE." Never fit a tube/tubed tire.
- Direction of rotation: observe the arrow on the sidewall; the front and rear are usually direction-specific.
- Replace in pairs is not mandatory, but matching front/rear age and brand/family gives the most predictable handling. The rear wears far faster than the front on a Gold Wing (often 2–3 rears per front).
- New valve stem every tire change (see above).
- Bead seating: a heavy touring tire on a 16 in rim can be stubborn — use plenty of mounting lube and seat the bead carefully; do not exceed the bead-seat pressure marked on the tire while seating.
- After mounting: balance, then set cold pressure to spec, and re-torque the axle to the values above.
- Break-in: a new tire's mold-release film makes it slippery for the first ~80–160 km (50–100 mi); ride gently and vary lean angle to scrub it in.
- When the rear wheel is off, it is the ideal time to inspect the final-drive splines and re-grease them — see Final Drive / Shaft Drive.
Tread & Wear Notes¶
- Minimum tread depth: legal/practical minimum is commonly 1.6 mm (2/32 in); many touring riders replace earlier (~2–3 mm / ~3–4/32 in) because a worn rear's flattened profile hurts handling on this heavy bike. ⚠️ Confirm the exact wear-limit figure printed in the GL1500 owner's manual / on tread-wear indicators (TWI).
- Wear indicators (TWI): small molded bars in the tread grooves; when tread is flush with them, replace the tire.
- Cupping / scalloping on the front is the classic GL1500 complaint — often linked to under-inflation, worn fork/steering-head bearings, or imbalance. Keeping the front at the correct (or slightly higher) pressure and balanced helps.
- Squaring-off of the rear from highway miles is normal; once the center is flat the bike feels reluctant to turn — replace the rear.
- Age: replace tires that are more than ~5–6 years old regardless of tread (check the DOT date code), as rubber hardens and cracks — important on a bike that often sits between rides.
- Inspect for sidewall cracking, embedded objects, and uneven wear at every oil change / pressure check.
Sources¶
- Honda Goldwing GL1500 Owner's Manual, "Tubeless Tyres" / tire-pressure page (ManualsLib): https://www.manualslib.com/manual/598692/Honda-Goldwing-Gl1500.html?page=37
- Honda GoldWing GL1500 Service Manual, "Bearing Replacement; Wheel Assembly" (ManualsLib index): https://www.manualslib.com/manual/817941/Honda-Goldwing-Gl1500.html?page=397
- motorcyclespecs.co.za — 1998 Honda GLX 1500 Gold Wing specifications: https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/Honda/honda_glx_1500_98.html
- TotalMotorcycle — 1995 Honda GL1500 Aspencade Gold Wing specs: https://www.totalmotorcycle.com/motorcyclespecshandbook/honda/1995-honda-GL1500AspencadeGoldWing/
- goldwingdocs.com — "stock tire sizes" (GL1500): https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=65861
- goldwingdocs.com — "How to remove and replace your rear wheel" (GL1500 DIY): https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11395
- goldwingdocs.com — "How to remove and replace your front wheel" (GL1500 DIY): https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11203
- goldwingdocs.com — "Rear Wheel Bearings" (GL1500): https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=25761
- Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums — "GL1500 Front axle bolt torque value": https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/gl1500-front-axle-bolt-torque-value.401170/
- Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums — "1500 rear axle nut torque value": https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/1500-rear-axle-nut-torque-value.365276/
- Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums — "GL1500 wheel bearings": https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/gl1500-wheel-bearings.393206/
- New Motorcycle Parts — Honda wheel-bearing application chart (WB-004 / WB-204): https://newmotorcycleparts.net/chassis/wheel_bearing_app_hon.html
- goldwingparts.com — Front Wheel Bearing 6004-2RS: https://www.goldwingparts.com/products/front-wheel-bearing-6004-2rs
- spazcycle.com — All Balls 22-51077 / 25-1077 front wheel bearing/seal kit: https://spazcycle.com/products/all-balls-22-51077-25-1077-wheel-bearing-seal-kit-8156
- Two Tyres — Honda Goldwing Tyre Guide: https://twotyres.co.uk/honda-goldwing-tyre-guide/
- Amazon — Dunlop Elite 4 130/70-18 (63H) front for GL1500A: https://www.amazon.com/Dunlop-Motorcycle-Aspencade-GL1500A-1991-2000/dp/B07CJ1XMNM
- Amazon — Dunlop Elite 4 160/80B-16 (80H) rear for GL1500A: https://us.amazon.com/Dunlop-Motorcycle-Aspencade-GL1500A-1991-2000/dp/B07CHY1ZGH
⚠️ Items to Verify¶
- Front axle torque unit mismatch: Honda's factory table prints "90 N·m (9.0 kg·m, 65 ft·lb)," which is internally inconsistent (65 ft·lb = 88 N·m; 90 N·m = 66 ft·lb). Use 65–66 ft·lb (88–90 N·m); confirm against your own factory service manual edition.
- Rim widths (front ≈ MT2.50×18, rear ≈ MT3.50×16) are not consistently documented in the sources consulted — verify the stamping on your wheels and/or the factory service manual.
- Rear tire load/speed rating: owner's manual prints 75H for the OEM Dunlop; modern replacements (Dunlop Elite 4) are commonly 80H. Match to the actual sidewall of the tire you fit.
- Rear wheel second bearing dimension (≈20 × 47 × 20.6 mm) and its exact OEM number — confirm by measuring on removal and/or against the parts catalog; note which side each rear bearing goes.
- Front brake caliper mounting-bolt torques (≈17 ft·lb top / ≈9 ft·lb bottom) come from a DIY writeup — confirm against the factory service manual / Brakes and Torque Specifications.
- Exact OEM valve-stem part number / type (TR412 vs TR413) not confirmed — verify bore size on your wheel.
- Maximum vehicle load capacity (GVWR / payload) — read off this unit's owner's manual and VIN/load plate rather than relying on the approximate ~200 kg figure here.
- Minimum legal/recommended tread depth specific to the GL1500 owner's manual — confirm the printed wear-limit figure; rely on the molded tread-wear indicators (TWI).
- No GL1500-specific wheel/tire safety recall was found in the sources consulted (a 2025 NHTSA recall returned by search concerned automobile aluminum wheels, not this motorcycle). Verify directly at NHTSA for the bike's VIN.