Fuel System (Carburetors)¶
The 2000 Honda GL1500 SE Gold Wing is carbureted — it uses two large Keihin constant-velocity (CV) carburetors, one feeding each bank of the 1520 cc flat-six. (Fuel injection did not arrive until the GL1800 in 2001.) Fuel is drawn from a 24 L (6.3 US gal) underseat tank by a low-pressure electric fuel pump, through an inline filter, and the whole system is gated by a vacuum-operated fuel valve plus a bank-angle safety cutoff. This page documents the carburetors, jetting, synchronization, idle/mixture adjustment, the fuel pump and tank, filters and lines, recommended fuel, the California evaporative-emissions hardware, the air filter/airbox, and the classic GL1500 fuel-system failure points.
Most service-spec values below are common to the entire GL1500 generation (1988–2000); the 2000 SE shares the same dual-carb induction and fuel delivery as every other 1500. Where early carbs differ (notably the 1988–89 idle-jet recall), it is called out. Always confirm against the factory service manual before machining or replacing precision parts. See also Engine, Maintenance Schedule, Electrical, and Torque Specifications.
1. Carburetors — Type & Layout¶
| Item | Specification | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Make / type | Keihin, constant-velocity (CV), vacuum-slide / diaphragm type | Sometimes labelled "VD" series on the carb body |
| Number of carburetors | 2 (one per cylinder bank — left bank, right bank) | Each carb feeds 3 cylinders via a runner manifold |
| Bore / venturi size | 36 mm (1.42 in) | ⚠️ widely cited as 36 mm — confirm against the service manual |
| Slide actuation | Manifold vacuum lifts a rubber diaphragm/slide (CV principle) | No mechanical slide cable |
| Cold-start device | Enrichener ("bystarter" / starting-enrichment) circuit, dash-knob actuated | NOT a butterfly choke plate — see §6 |
| Accelerator pump | Yes — one diaphragm pump on the right-hand carb float bowl | Squirts raw fuel into the air horns on throttle tip-in |
| Float type | Twin floats with a needle/seat per carb | Float level spec in §3 |
| Carb assembly part no. | ⚠️ year-2000 set unverified — late carb sets carry a 16100-MZ0-Axx family number; earlier (e.g. 1990 SE) sets were 16100-MT8-020. Confirm by the carb ID stamped on the body and your VIN. |
How the CV carb works (orientation for the DIY mechanic): the throttle butterflies only control how much vacuum signal reaches the diaphragms. Engine vacuum then lifts the slide/needle automatically in proportion to airflow, metering fuel through the needle jet. This is why a GL1500 has no idle-mixture "choke" plate and why a torn diaphragm produces a hesitation/flat-spot rather than an outright no-start.
Identifying your carbs: the carburetor identification code is stamped on the carburetor body. Use it (with the VIN/engine number) when ordering jets, needles, or a complete carb — the GL1500 used several jetting variants across 1988–2000. See VIN & Serial Numbers if present.
2. Jetting & Idle Mixture¶
GL1500 jetting changed across the run. The most important change was the 1988–89 idle-jet recall/service campaign, which enlarged the slow/idle jet to cure an off-idle stumble on takeoff.
| Year / variant | Main jet | Slow (idle/pilot) jet | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1988–1989 (original) | #155 | #50 | Original off-idle stumble; superseded |
| 1988–1989 (post-recall) | #155 | #55 | Recall enlarged idle jet to cure takeoff stumble ⚠️ |
| 1990 onward (incl. 2000) | #158 | #60 | ⚠️ corroborate against the FSM/parts fiche for your exact carb ID |
| Some later 1500 carbs (reported) | #148 | #65 | ⚠️ unverified variant — confirm by carb ID before ordering |
- Jet needle: reported as ~D267 / D268A depending on carb variant ⚠️ — verify against the parts fiche; do not assume.
- Needle jet: reported ~D267 ⚠️ unverified.
- These numbers are corroborated only from owner-community/rebuild-kit sources, which frequently copy each other. Confirm jet sizes against the Honda parts microfiche for your specific carburetor ID number before buying or drilling.
Pilot (idle-mixture) screws¶
| Item | Specification | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Number of pilot screws | 2 (one per carburetor) | One reachable from each side of the bike |
| Initial opening (from lightly seated) | 2 turns out ⚠️ confirm against FSM | Factory starting point; final set by idle-drop method |
| Mixture direction | CCW = richer, CW = leaner | "Out is richer" |
| Idle-mixture set method | "Idle drop" / lean-best procedure with the engine hot | See §4 |
- Each pilot screw has a tiny washer, O-ring, and spring under it — capture them; losing one causes a vacuum leak and an unstable idle.
- A factory limiter cap may be fitted; on a federal/49-state bike it can usually be removed, but California-spec bikes are emissions-controlled — keep settings to spec.
- These are fuel/air pilot screws; they are not the idle-speed adjuster (that is a cable knob — see §4).
3. Float Level¶
| Item | Specification | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Float level / height | 7.5 mm (0.30 in) | The official Honda shop manual prints both 7.5 mm and 8.0 mm in different sections; experienced GL1500 builders treat 7.5 mm as correct. ⚠️ Confirm against your FSM and use a float-level gauge. |
| Measurement aid | Honda/aftermarket carb float-level gauge | Whether to include the ~1 mm float end-cap protrusion in the measurement is debated — measure consistently |
- Too-high float level → flooding, fuel in the airbox/oil, hard hot-starting; too-low → lean stumble and surging.
- A leaking float needle/seat (worn tip) will overflow the bowl and is a common cause of fuel-in-the-crankcase and stale-fuel hard starts.
4. Idle Speed & Idle Adjustment¶
| Item | Specification | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Idle speed (in neutral) | 800 ± 80 rpm | GL1500 Owner's Manual |
| Idle adjuster | Knob/cable accessible through the fuel strainer (fuel access) door | Owner-adjustable |
| Engine state | Fully warmed up (~10 min stop-and-go), in neutral, on the centerstand |
Owner idle-adjust procedure (per the owner's manual): 1. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature; place the bike in neutral on the centerstand. 2. Open the fuel strainer (access) door. 3. Turn the idle adjusting knob to bring idle to 800 ± 80 rpm.
Honda explicitly states this owner adjustment is intended mainly to correct altitude-related idle changes. Full carburetor service — individual carb adjustment and synchronization — is a dealer/FSM-level job.
Idle-drop (lean-best) mixture procedure — overview (do AFTER sync, hot engine): - Set both pilot screws to the initial setting (≈2 turns out). - Set idle to spec with the idle knob. - Turn one pilot screw in until rpm just drops, then back out to the highest stable rpm; repeat on the other carb; reset idle. ⚠️ Use the FSM's exact idle-drop rpm figures — they are not reliably reproduced in community sources.
5. Carburetor Synchronization (Balancing)¶
The GL1500 has only two carbs, so unlike the 4-carb GL1100/GL1200 you sync just one pair. The left carburetor is the fixed reference (base) — you adjust the right carb to match it via a single sync screw on the manifold/linkage.
| Item | Specification | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Reference (base) carb | Left (fixed) | Adjust the right to match the left |
| Adjuster | One synchronization screw on the carb linkage/manifold | Reached after removing lower fairing panels |
| Engine state during sync | Fully warm, choke OFF, in neutral, centerstand | |
| Idle during sync | Spec idle, 800 ± 80 rpm ⚠️ confirm the exact "sync rpm" in the FSM | |
| Max allowable vacuum difference | ≤ ~50 mm Hg (≈2 in Hg) between the two carbs ⚠️ | This 50 mm Hg / 2 in Hg figure is the long-standing factory cross-cylinder tolerance for Gold Wings; tighter (¼–½ in Hg) is preferred. Confirm against the GL1500 FSM. |
Procedure (DIY overview): - Remove the lower left and right fairing panels to reach the manifold vacuum ports and the sync screw. - Warm the engine fully; turn the choke/enrichener fully off. - Connect a 2-gauge carb-sync set (mercury sticks, dial gauges, or a clear-tube/water "manometer") to the two manifold vacuum ports. - At idle, slowly turn the sync screw until both gauges read equal; tweak idle speed back to 800 ± 80 rpm; recheck. An assistant on the gauges helps. - Cautions: - Do NOT rev above ~3500 rpm with mercury sticks connected — you can suck mercury into the engine. If it happens, disconnect and ride a mile to purge. - Restrictors/dampers in the gauge lines keep the needles from fluttering. - Sync is the last adjustment after valve-lash (hydraulic on the GL1500 — no manual lash), ignition, and mixture are right.
When to sync: after removing/cleaning the carbs, after timing-belt service, and at the scheduled maintenance interval — see Maintenance Schedule.
6. Enrichener / "Choke" (Cold-Start Circuit)¶
- The dash "choke" knob does not close a butterfly plate. It opens an enrichener (bystarter / starting-enrichment) valve in each carb that adds extra fuel for cold starts.
- A stuck-open enrichener valve causes a rich idle and black-smoke / fouling; a stuck-closed one causes hard cold starting.
- Cold-start tip: pull the enrichener fully on; many owners blip the throttle a couple of times (to fire the accelerator pump) and crank in short bursts. Push the knob in as the engine warms.
- If applying the "choke" produces no idle rise, suspect a seized/disconnected enrichener plunger or a previously down-adjusted fast idle.
7. Accelerator Pump¶
- A single diaphragm-type accelerator pump lives on the right-hand carburetor float bowl. It squirts raw fuel into the carb air horns when you open the throttle, covering the lean transient as the CV slides catch up.
- Test: remove the air cleaner, manually snap the throttle, and watch for a strong fuel squirt from the pump nozzles in the air horn. No squirt = bad pump or blocked passage/check valve. (The pump itself is only fully accessible with the carbs removed.)
- Common failures: a perished diaphragm (no squirt), a clogged check-valve pipe, or clogged nozzles from varnish. Clean nozzles with a fine wire bristle and carb cleaner / compressed air; replace the diaphragm during a rebuild. Do not lose the alignment dowels or O-ring when removing the pump.
8. Fuel Pump¶
The GL1500 uses a low-pressure electric fuel pump (mounted in/near the tank). It is NOT a mechanical/vacuum diaphragm lift pump — though a separate vacuum-operated fuel valve also gates flow (see §9).
| Item | Specification | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Type | Electric, low-pressure | |
| Output pressure | ~2–3 psi (≈14–21 kPa / 0.14–0.21 bar) | Owner tests commonly 2 psi; ~2.5–3.5 psi cited. ⚠️ Confirm FSM spec — it is a low-pressure pump for carbs |
| Minimum flow (FSM test) | 640 cc (21.6 US fl oz) per minute | i.e. measured fuel for 5 s × 12 |
| OEM part numbers | 16700-MAF-000 (assembly); also seen 16700-MAF-870, 16700-MT3-010, 16700-MW5-870 | Fits 1988–2000 GL1500; verify by your parts fiche |
Operation / control: - At key-ON the pump runs for only a couple of seconds to prime, then stops; it runs continuously only while the engine is cranking/running. Power is switched via the ECM/fuel-pump relay path — it will not run with the key on and the engine stopped. - A check valve in the pump holds fuel and prevents back-flow when the engine is off (this is also why there's no manual fuel tap to leave "on"). - The bank-angle sensor is wired into this circuit: if the bike falls over it cuts the fuel pump (and ignition). The bank-angle sensor has a history of failing on early 1500s and can cause an intermittent no-fuel/no-run condition. See Electrical.
Fuel pump flow/output test (FSM method): 1. Disconnect a carb feed line into a graduated beaker. 2. With ignition ON, jumper the BLK/WHT and BLK/BLU terminals at the ECM connector to force the pump to run. 3. Let fuel flow for 5 seconds, switch off, measure, × 12 for cc/min. 4. ≥ 640 cc/min (21.6 oz/min) = pass. ⚠️ Confirm terminal colors against your wiring diagram.
9. Fuel Valve / Petcock & Vacuum Cutoff¶
- There is no conventional ON/RESERVE/OFF petcock on the GL1500. Fuel flow is controlled electrically (pump) and by a vacuum-operated fuel valve located just forward of the fuel filler.
- The vacuum valve's rubber diaphragm opens on manifold vacuum to pass fuel. A torn/cracked diaphragm is a classic failure: at high speed/high throttle (low manifold vacuum) the valve can close and starve the engine of fuel — symptom is bogging/dying at speed that clears at lower load. Test by drawing and holding a vacuum on the valve's vacuum port. For how this valve ties into the bike's overall vacuum routing, see Vacuum System & Routing.
- Because there is no reserve tap, the low-fuel warning light is your reserve indicator (see §10).
10. Fuel Tank, Capacity & Reserve¶
| Item | Specification | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Tank capacity (total) | 24.0 L (6.3 US gal / 5.3 Imp gal) | Owner's Manual; underseat tank |
| Usable to low-fuel light | ≈ 20.1 L (≈5.3 US gal) ⚠️ | Light comes on at ~5.3 gal used; figure approximate |
| Reserve after light | ≈ 1 US gal (≈3.8 L) before pickup uncovers ⚠️ | Not all is accessible; community figure |
| Reserve type | No reserve petcock and no reserve pump | Low-fuel light is the only warning |
| Typical light-on point | ~180–200 miles (≈290–320 km) of riding ⚠️ | Depends on mpg/riding |
| Range after light | ~25–33 miles (≈40–53 km) before the engine dies ⚠️ | Pickup-dependent |
- When the fuel level drops below the single pump pickup the engine simply stops — there is no second pickup to switch to. Treat the low-fuel light as a firm refuel prompt.
- The tank's flat bottom leaves a small amount of fuel below the pickup that is never usable, which is why owners rarely put in the full 6.3 gal.
11. Fuel Filter, Lines & Strainer¶
| Item | Specification | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Inline fuel filter (OEM) | 16900-MG8-003 | Maintenance item; low cost |
| Fuel strainer | In the fuel system/pump assembly | Behind the fuel access ("strainer") door |
| Filter service | Replace per schedule / if flow is restricted | See Maintenance Schedule ⚠️ exact interval — confirm FSM |
Fuel-line cautions (real-world): - Use submersible-rated fuel hose for any line exposed to fuel on the outside (e.g. inside the tank area). Ordinary fuel line degrades from the outside in those locations and will fail. - The large feed hose that makes a 90° bend onto the top of the tank is prone to tearing where it slips over the spigot — inspect it; this is a known leak/starvation point. - Replace cracked/hardened lines and all clamps during any fuel-system service. Inspect for ethanol-related swelling on older hoses.
12. Recommended Fuel / Octane¶
| Market / rating system | Minimum octane | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| US / Canada — pump (R+M)/2 (AKI) | 86 or higher (regular 87 is fine) | US-spec owner's manual; "unleaded only, 86 or higher" |
| RON-rated markets (e.g. Europe/Australia) | 91 RON or higher | Same fuel — RON reads ~4–6 numbers higher than AKI |
| Fuel type | Unleaded (low-lead/unleaded) |
- The "91" some manuals print is a RON figure; in US pump (AKI) terms that's roughly 87 — so US regular unleaded is correct for the GL1500. Do not assume "premium required."
- If persistent knock/ping occurs, try a different brand or one grade higher; engine damage from improper/contaminated fuel is not covered by warranty.
- Never use stale, contaminated, or oil-mixed fuel. Ethanol-blend fuel (E10) is tolerated but accelerates varnish/phase-separation when stored — see §14.
13. Air Filter / Airbox¶
| Item | Specification | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Air filter element (OEM) | 17210-MZ0-000 (paper element) | Fits GL1500 1988–2000 |
| Sub/secondary filter | Separate small "sub" air filter in the cleaner assembly | All 1500s 1988–2000 |
| Type | Pleated paper, dry | K&N and other reusable elements exist |
| Service | Replace at the scheduled interval; more often in dust | See Maintenance Schedule ⚠️ confirm interval |
- The airbox sits between the carbs and the rider; access requires removing trunk/seat/fairing trim — budget time. A clogged element richens mixture and dulls throttle response.
14. Common Fuel-System Problems & Tips¶
Stale-fuel varnish (the #1 GL1500 carb problem): - After ~2 weeks the float bowls evaporate; left for months, the fuel turns to varnish that plugs the idle/slow jets and accelerator-pump nozzles first (they're the smallest). - Symptoms: won't idle, surging, off-idle stumble, dies at stops, needs choke to keep running. - Tips: add fuel stabilizer for storage and run it through; if stored dry, drain the bowls. Severe varnish needs full carb removal, ultrasonic cleaning, and a rebuild kit (Randakk's, All Balls 26-1672, etc.). Use new jets if the old ones can't be cleaned perfectly.
Diaphragm cracks (CV slide & vacuum fuel valve): - The CV slide diaphragms harden and crack with age/ethanol → hesitation, flat spots, poor high-speed pull. Inspect by holding the diaphragm to light. - The vacuum fuel-valve diaphragm tears at the edge → high-speed fuel starvation (§9).
Fuel pump failure (increasingly common on aging 1500s): - Early warning: on long, hot rides with a low tank, the engine bogs/dies, then runs again once cooled or refueled; failures then get more frequent. - Diagnose with the flow test (≥640 cc/min) and pressure check (~2–3 psi). Don't overlook the bank-angle sensor and fuel-pump relay — they cut pump power and mimic a dead pump.
Fuel-pressure regulator / float-needle leak: - A pinhole in the regulator diaphragm or a worn float needle causes uncontrolled fuel flow / flooding, fuel smell, and fuel diluting the oil — check oil level/smell after a flooding episode.
Hard hot-start after sitting: - Usually evaporated bowls (re-prime: key on a few cycles isn't enough since the pump only runs while cranking/running — crank in bursts) or a leaking float needle that drained/over-filled a bowl.
General DIY notes: - The GL1500 has hydraulic valve-lash adjusters — there is no manual valve clearance to set, so don't chase an idle problem there; look at carbs, sync, vacuum leaks, and the enrichener instead. - Keep the small pilot-screw O-rings/washers and accelerator-pump dowels/O-ring organized during teardown. - Torque carb-to-manifold and fuel-fitting hardware to spec — see Torque Specifications.
15. Emissions / Evaporative (EVAP) — California Bikes¶
- California-spec GL1500s carry an evaporative-emissions (EVAP) system: a charcoal canister (located behind the lower cowl, ahead of the clutch bleed valve) stores tank/bowl vapors and feeds them to the engine to be burned, instead of venting to atmosphere.
- A carburetor air-vent (CAV) control valve and associated hoses route bowl vents through the system; the FSM lists a CAV control-valve inspection.
- Tips: a kinked/disconnected EVAP/CAV hose can cause a fuel smell or a hard-to-trace running/idle complaint; verify all vapor hoses are routed and unblocked. Removing/altering EVAP hardware on a California bike is not emissions-legal.
- 49-state/federal bikes generally lack the canister but still have bowl/tank vent provisions. ⚠️ Confirm which hardware your specific VIN/market carries.
- ⚠️ Whether the GL1500 uses a pulsed secondary-air (PAIR/AIR) system is not confirmed here — verify against the FSM emissions section before assuming. See Engine / exhaust pages.
Sources¶
- Honda GL1500 Owner's Manual — Idle Speed (page 92): https://www.manualslib.com/manual/598692/Honda-Goldwing-Gl1500.html?page=92
- Honda GL1500 Owner's Manual — Fuel (page 32, tank capacity/octane/check valve): https://www.manualslib.com/manual/598692/Honda-Goldwing-Gl1500.html?page=32
- Honda GL1500 Service Manual — Carburetor Synchronization (page 43): https://www.manualslib.com/manual/817941/Honda-Goldwing-Gl1500.html?page=43
- Honda GL1500 Service Manual — Pilot Screw / Idle Drop (page 99): https://www.manualslib.com/manual/817941/Honda-Gl1500.html?page=99
- Honda GL1500 Service Manual — Float Chamber / Float Level (page 89): https://www.manualslib.com/manual/817941/Honda-Goldwing-Gl1500.html?page=89
- Honda GL1500 Service Manual — EVAP / CAV Control Valve (page 120): https://www.manualslib.com/manual/817941/Honda-Goldwing-Gl1500.html?page=120
- goldwingdocs.com — Fuel reserve question: https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19043
- goldwingdocs.com — Fuel pump output volume test (640 cc/min): https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24533
- goldwingdocs.com — 1997 GL1500SE carb pilot screw adjustment: https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=41600
- goldwingdocs.com — 1997 GL1500SE carb float setting (7.5 vs 8.0 mm): https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=41315
- goldwingdocs.com — Recommended octane for GL1500: https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=28080
- goldwingdocs.com — Fuel pump pressure GL1500: https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26231
- Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums — 90 GL1500 carb jetting question: https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/90-gl1500-carb-jetting-question.666873/
- Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums — GL1500 fuel pump control circuit: https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/gl1500-fuel-pump-control-circuit.370724/
- Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums — GL1500 carburetor accelerator pump access: https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/gl1500-carburetor-accelerator-pump-access.390078/
- Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums — GL1500 stock fuel pump pressure: https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/gl1500-stock-fuel-pump-pressure.364993/
- Randakk's Blog — Honda GL1500 accelerator pump details: https://www.randakksblog.com/honda-gl1500-accelerator-pump-details/
- Randakk's — GL1500 master carb overhaul kit: https://www.randakks.com/randakks-own-gl1500-master-carb-overhaul-kit.html
- Cyclemax — GL1500 OEM fuel filter 16900-MG8-003: https://cyclemax.com/products/gl1500-oem-honda-fuel-filter
- CMSNL — GL1500 carburetor component parts (1990): https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-gl1500-goldwing-1990-l-germany_model3321/partslist/E__2101.html
- OSIAS / FuelPumpFactory — GL1500 fuel pump 16700-MAF-000: https://www.osiaspart.com/Honda-Fuel-Pump-ASSEMBLY-1988-2000-GL1500-Goldwing-16700-MAF-000
- NHTSA — 1988 Honda GL1500 recalls (fuel-system campaign 95V128000): https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/1988/HONDA/GL1500
- motorcyclespecs.co.za — GL1500 Gold Wing model pages (engine/induction reference): https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/Honda/honda_glx_1500_sport.htm
⚠️ Items to Verify¶
- Carb venturi/bore (36 mm) — corroborated from community sources; confirm against the FSM specifications table.
- Year-2000 carburetor assembly part number and the exact carb ID code on the body — not pinned here; confirm via the Honda parts fiche for your VIN.
- Jet sizes by year (main #158 / idle #60 for 1990–2000; needle/needle-jet codes D267/D268A) — community-sourced and easily mis-copied; verify against the parts microfiche for your exact carb ID before buying or drilling jets.
- Pilot-screw initial setting (2 turns out) and the idle-drop rpm targets — confirm exact FSM figures.
- Float level: 7.5 mm vs 8.0 mm — the shop manual prints both; builders favor 7.5 mm. Confirm with a float gauge and your FSM.
- Carb-sync max vacuum difference (~50 mm Hg / 2 in Hg) and the exact sync rpm — the 50 mm Hg figure is the long-standing Gold Wing cross-cylinder tolerance; verify the GL1500-specific value.
- Fuel-pump pressure (~2–3 psi) — owner-measured; confirm the FSM pressure spec (the FSM emphasizes the flow test, ≥640 cc/min).
- Fuel-pump test jumper terminals (BLK/WHT + BLK/BLU at the ECM) — verify against your wiring diagram before jumpering.
- Usable fuel / reserve figures and range-after-light — approximate community values; vary with mpg and pickup geometry.
- Filter and air-element service intervals — confirm against the FSM maintenance schedule.
- NHTSA recall 95V128000 details (defect/remedy) and whether it applies to a 2000 SE — the NHTSA page was not directly readable; confirm campaign scope and that the idle-jet service change (#50→#55) applies only to 1988–89 carbs.
- EVAP/CAV hardware vs PAIR secondary-air — confirm exactly which emissions hardware a 2000 SE (California vs 49-state) carries; PAIR presence is unverified.